Winter Escape: Unlocking Morocco’s Secrets Behind Every Beautiful Door
Having grown up in Chicago, I am used to these cold dark winter days by now, but it doesn’t mean that I’m not always on the lookout for an escape clause. So many people dream of island destinations in the winter, but I’ve always been a girl who likes things a bit different than what everyone else is doing as true joy for me lives in the superlative and uncommon. Morocco in the winter is just such a destination.
There is a saying here that goes: In Morocco never be surprised. If you see a donkey flying, just say Allah is capable of anything.
Allah has been quite busy working magic in corners all over this beautiful country. If you are a traveler who walks about Paris with tears in your eyes at just how beautiful everything is, you will adore Morocco, but in quite a different way. The intricate colors and details that go into every corner, archway, fabric, pattern and souk offering tell the history evolved over centuries, influenced by many cultures and traditions.
Moorish architectural style, which emerged in the 8th century, is the foundation of Moroccan design. Influenced by Roman mosaics, these were used to create images on floors, walls, and ceilings. The Moors adapted Roman mosaics into Zellij, a style of tilework that creates geometric patterns. You will see these handmade Zellij everywhere with their manically detailed patterns and will be astonished that these are all carefully formed, cut, colored and wholly handmade.
A true star of Moroccan design is the property I stayed at upon arrival, The Oberoi Marrakesh. Built over 10 years under direction of Casablanca based architect, Patrick Collier and worked on by hundreds of artisans from around the country. It took 200 artists and two years just to complete one section of the main building which is evident in every hand crafted tile and carving.
The hotel’s perfection of a central courtyard is modeled after Madrasa Ben Youssef, a 14th-century historic monument in Marrakech.
The property overlooks the Atlas Mountains and is nestled into 28 acres of beautiful land covered in citrus orchards, pools and fountains, luscious gardens, and even some resident falcons and donkeys that you may visit while there.
I was shown to my Deluxe Villa with pool and loved how quiet and peaceful it was as I walked to my rooms. There are 72 of these beautiful villas, and each is almost 800 square feet, with courtyard, walk in closet, bath and enormous shower, living room area, and a back patio and garden with its private pool, lounge area, and dining area. Pure heaven.
While the property is about 25 minutes from the center of town, it prides itself in being a respite and vacation from the chaos of the city. They have an excellent hammam, a Kids Club, racquet sports, bikes, offer cooking classes, heli tours, motorcycle side car tours, and so much more to keep you entertained and fulfilled during your time here. There is a person handmaking tiles in the courtyard who is very happy to show you the painstaking process, and who gifted me one that he made to take home. Musicians may greet you in the lobby as you stroll in toward dinner, the air is perfumed, and every sightline has been designed to perfection.
A short 25-minute ride will get you into town to Jemaa el Fnaa Square- the main square in the medina used by locals and tourists alike. You’ll see the obligatory snake charmers, henna painters and performers as you arrive, but a walk into the square, past all of the things positioned to lure tourists, will have you feeling like you’ve gone back in time to authentic Marrakesh.
The cacophony of sounds, sights, and smells will assault your senses in all of the best ways down the long corridors of the souk. This is why we travel; to get outside of our day-to-day world and to see how different life can be.
There are so many artistic moments to be found here in the way the bright and colorful mounds of spices are exactingly displayed, the walls of custom-made leather slippers and bags, the stalls of gold and silver jewelry, and hand forged lamps hanging from above. This country has been siring artisans for centuries, and you’ll be thrilled to see that the traditions have carried on through the generations and grateful that they are selling luggage to carry these treasures home in. It was there I met a man hand sewing Moroccan poufs- a rounded footstool made of leather, that can neatly be stuffed at home making it a perfect souvenir (I bought two).
You’ll likely want a guide for the markets here to help you navigate the maze of shops and stalls, assist you in finding what you want, and someone who might help you to learn the fine art of Moroccan bargaining. My advice is to start by offering about half the price and meet somewhere in the middle. Stay friendly and polite, always walking away if the price isn’t right for you. You can pay in Euros or Dollars here, but your change will be in Moroccan dirhams. Many vendors also take credit cards. It also helps to have someone by your side to remind you to always walk on the right so that you don’t get run over by a donkey or moped when gazing at a beautiful purse.
Our second night we were treated to a deluxe private party in the desert arranged by Abercrombie & Kent on our behalf. The Palmeraie of Marrakesh; an oasis of palm groves in the desert was transformed into an otherworldly sight of candle lit tents blanketed in oriental rugs, a lounge with couches and firepits, dancing horses, fired eaters, camel rides, a dj spinning tunes at the open bar, an exquisite multi course dinner, and later a hookah lounge with belly dancers. Now I get what Ali Baba and his 40 thieves were after. This was an over-the-top night of the desert’s treasures brought out just for us.
The following day brought explorations to a few more cultural points of Marrakesh. Stepping into Madrasa Ben Youssef, one of those “no such thing as too many pictures” kind of places, this is a 14th century masterpiece showcasing intricate architecture and a rich history of this Muslim equivalent of a seminary. If stained glass church windows inspire you, your breath will be taken at all of the detail exacted in every wall and corridor carving of these buildings. Same can be said with the Dar El Bacha Museum, a lovely building showcasing some of the most beautiful Moroccan doorways you’ve ever strolled through (and if you’re like me, posed in front of). This museum has one of the most dreamy cafes I’ve ever seen at a museum, but I cannot tell you if the two hour wait ended up being worth it, as I had more to see!
This afternoon I stopped in at La Mamounia- another luxurious palace of a hotel property right in the heart of Marrakesh. Here I was treated to a lovely poolside lunch as well as a peek at some of their magnificent suites. The grounds here are also peaceful and enormous, and host fountains, pools, racquet courts, a vintage game room for the kids, and you feel like you can stroll for days beneath the cooling palm and citrus trees. It’s no wonder that this is a celebrity darling for Marrakesh with so much to offer all right in the heart of the city, yet shockingly peaceful and quite within these walls. They have Hammams, indoor and outdoor pools, a golf package, several bars and restaurants including both an Italian and an Asian space both by Jean-Georges and art in all of the public spaces.
For a completely different experience that night, we attended a dinner in a private riad at the Royal Mansour Marrakech. A riad is a typical Moroccan house or palace with central garden and courtyard. This hotel property is owned by the King Mohammed VI of Morocco who was determined that it wouldn’t just be a Moroccan hotel, but instead a physical manifestation of all things Moroccan. It has 53 distinct riads and four restaurants, that give your family a chance to experience the life of Moroccan luxury and privacy. They have 1-4 bedrooms and their Grand Four-bedroom Riad has a pool, elevator, hammam, fitness room, and butler service. Each riad has their own pool, courtyard and butler service, and I promise you’ll feel as if you’re staying in a palace. This would be the most exquisite place to gather your family for any special occasion.
The next day brought us to Casablanca and the capital of Rabat. While Casablanca very well could be your point of arrival or departure, it is truly more of a modern port town than its storied movie reputation would have you believe. The Royal Mansour also has a property here with a luxury hotel feel (not riad style) where the rooms have everything sublimely and carefully thought out. Little touches like a kinetic watch winder attached to the safe help to keep your Swiss timepiece going while you rest, and the modern art deco design is crafted to make you feel as if you’re sleeping in a very large and well adorned jewel box.
In the afternoon we ventured on to the stunning Hassan II Mosque, built over the sea in Casablanca. This is the 14th largest mosque in the world and can hold up to a staggering 25,000 worshipers inside the building. It only took six years to build, and it was finished in the early 1990’s. Here you’ll learn a bit about the culture of the Muslim religion, the building of the inlayed floors, gilded ceiling, and will marvel that the floors are heated and the roof is retractable. While you need to be respectfully dressed to tour, women are not required to wear a head scarf, but I recommend it at this place of worship.
The evening brought us to our next stay at the Fairmont La Marina Rabat Salé. One of the chicest Fairmont’s I’ve seen this is striking with it’s modern black and white tiled floors and it’s privileged view on the banks of the Bouregreg River of Rabat. This is a hotel as well as apartments, spa, and restaurants, and all welcome you with the over the top hospitality that Fairmont is known for. It’s an outstanding property to feel peaceful inside the city of Rabat, but a serene location just 20 minutes from the airport. We danced the night away at their bar, were given a sumptuous meal, and a delightful belly dancer got us all moving after dinner.
The next day, the Fairmont Rabat gave us a chance to experience more Moroccan culture first hand with bread and pastry making, Zellij tile workshops, and gliding through the calm waters on a Flouka (flat bottomed traditional boat) to see the city from a different perspective. I always appreciate these cultural touches on any trip, as they help connect me further to the people and history of the destination.
In case you have not had your fill of gold, silver, and stunning patterns at the souks, I highly recommend a visit to the Musée National de la Parure in Rabat. This is a National Jewelry Museum (cue the angels singing) located in a beautiful Andalusian inspired building with gardens and courtyards. This is a study in Moroccan adornment over the years and speaks to the culture of beauty and ornamentation that Moroccan women have been known for. It is a lovely place to explore jewelry, silks, carpets, musical instruments, ceramics and costumes from different regions of the country. Abercrombie and Kent threw us a special farewell party here on the last night, and it was an incredible place to explore.
Travel Notes for Morocco
January was a warm and beautiful surprise here. The days were in the high 60’s and low 70’s and sunny, making it a wonderful January destination where we were comfortable in shorts and dresses. The nights were cool (down to the 50’s and 40’s) but truly nothing that a light jacket and scarf couldn’t take care of. Given that this is a less expensive and crowded time to travel, I think it’s the perfect winter getaway.
There are nonstop flights from New York to Casablanca that take less than 7 hours, making this a surprisingly convenient get away in less time than it takes to get to many island destinations. One to two weeks is ideal to get a true sense of the breadth of Morocco, but it also makes the perfect add-on trip if you are visiting Spain or Portugal.
Many people ask me if Morocco is a safe place to visit. While I always suggest that you check with Travel.state.gov to see the latest warnings, at the time of this writing and of my visit, Morocco is considered only a Level 2 Destination, the same as France, Denmark, Sweden, and the Turks & Caicos (with many others). As always, be aware of your surroundings, watch for pick pockets, and work with experts who really know the area.
Health Requirements for Visiting Morocco:
Vaccinations:
No special vaccinations are required for entry from the US, but it’s always a good idea to be up-to-date on routine vaccines like MMR (measles, mumps, rubella), DTP (diphtheria, tetanus, pertussis), and influenza. Hepatitis A and Typhoid vaccinations are recommended, especially if you plan to explore rural areas or try a variety of foods.
Health Precautions:
Water: Stick to bottled water to avoid any tummy upsets.
Food Safety: Enjoy the street food but do ensure it’s cooked well. Avoid raw or undercooked meats and salads washed in untreated water. – Travel Insurance: Consider getting travel insurance that covers health issues, which can provide peace of mind for the unexpected.
Fun Facts About Morocco:
Diverse Landscapes: Morocco is home to diverse terrains including majestic mountains, vast deserts, and beautiful coastlines all within a few hours’ journey of each other.
Creative Capitals: The city of Fez is known as the world’s largest car-free urban area, with bustling, winding streets within its old medina.
Rich History: With its longstanding history, Morocco hosts nine UNESCO World Heritage sites, ranging from the archaeological site of Volubilis to the Medina of Essaouira.
Hollywood in the Desert: Many blockbuster films, such as “Gladiator” and “Game of Thrones,” have been filmed in Ait Benhaddou, a stunning ksar (fortified village) in the Moroccan desert.
Hospitality Essence: The welcoming nature of Moroccans is captured in local tea culture—mint tea, also known as ‘Moroccan whisky,’ is a symbol of hospitality and friendship.
Things to buy in Marrachech:
Argan Oil: Look for pure, organic, and high-quality argan oil. Perfect for skin and hair care, it’s a cherished Moroccan staple.
Spices: You cannot leave without a selection of Morocco’s famous spices like saffron, cumin, paprika, and the quintessential blend known as ‘ras el hanout.’
Handmade Rugs: From bold Berber designs to elegant Moroccan carpets, these handmade pieces are perfect reminders of the rich culture.
Leather Goods: Known for its fine quality leather, Marrakech offers everything from bags and wallets to traditional Moroccan slippers, known as ‘babouches.’
Ceramics: Beautifully intricate pottery, ranging in vibrant colors and patterns, make perfect souvenirs or gifts.
Lanterns and Metalwork: Intricate lanterns can add a touch of Moroccan elegance to any home. Plus, meticulously crafted silverware and tinware are great finds.
Traditional Clothing: Kaftans, scarves, and djellabas come in beautifully crafted designs, making fashionable and unique purchases.
Jewelry: Berber silver and traditional Moroccan pieces offer unique styles that tell cultural stories through their designs.
For those flying from the US like me, you’ll be pleased to know that a passport is your key to entering Morocco; no visa is required for stays up to 90 days. Just make sure your passport is valid for at least six months beyond your planned departure date—it’s a must-have detail!
Tips for Women Travelers:
As a woman traveling in Morocco, I felt quite safe, but it’s always wise to dress modestly as a sign of respect for the local culture. Long skirts, loose-fitting pants, and tops with sleeves will keep you comfortable and culturally considerate.
Cultural & Religious Etiquette:
Morocco is known for its warm hospitality and vibrant street life. Respect their customs by being mindful of local traditions—especially during prayers. When visiting religious sites, such as mosques, dressing modestly is imperative, and it’s good practice to ask permission before photographing people.
Must-Try Foods:
Keep your belly happy with these Moroccan delights:
Tagine: A slow-cooked stew, often flavored with honey, nuts, and dried fruit.
Couscous: The famous Moroccan dish, often served with vegetables and meat.
Pastilla: A savory-sweet pastry filled typically with pigeon or chicken.
If you are as enamored with the thought of Morocco as I am, please let me know and I will be happy to discuss it with you. We have wonderful partners in Morocco that we work with for everything from Adventure to Luxury, and this is truly a place that has that all. While they may say “In Morocco Never be surprised” I can promise you many happy surprises await you in Morocco.
Features
- Atlas Mountains
- Bouregreg River of Rabat
- Dar El Bacha Museum
- Fairmont La Marina Rabat Salé
- Hassan II Mosque
- Jemaa el Fnaa Square
- La Mamounia
- Madrasa Ben Youssef
- Marrakech
- Morocco
- Musée National de la Parure in Rabat
- Royal Mansour Marrakech
- The Oberoi Marrakesh.
- The Palmeraie of Marrakesh
- The Royal Mansour